good morning. 6:30 am and the south swell is here. 3-4′ maybe at bowls. 30 guys out already. clean conditions. wow, i see over 100 guys out at ala moana park. crazy!!! i’m going to finish packing and go for a surf somewhere. somewhere not too crowded. i just want to get one last session in before i leave this paradise and go to another paradise, okinawa. gosh, i can’t believe i’m traveling again. and for how long? i don’t even know. the waves will make that decision…. all i know is that i’m going to surf, dive, meet friends, and have fun!!! that’s what life’s all about… have a great day!!!
it was this past spring in shikoku when the groms came over for the tssc contest. shun had a used board that was sitting at the tssc factory. it was a perfect match for taku-kun so taku-kun scored!!!
then i just get a mail from taku’s mom with the great news!! taku got 3rd place in the buffalo contest held in shonan. riding shun’s old board. and get this, taku is still only 7 years old…. good job taku!!! keep on surfing and great things will happen for you…. like seth’s old board too???
this is how pro surfing careers start!!!
and last, these are the kind of things that make me happy. team go-naminori hanging out in kugunuma. go-naminori is the kind of website that makes and builds friendships. how cool is that? anyway, i stole this photo off chiaki’s blog. thanks chiaki. and see you soon.
**CLICK HERE TO CHECK OUT CHIAKI’S BLOG….
