i have hundreds of images on my desktop on my computer. some i took, and some that were sent to me. it’s time to clean it up but before i delete it, i should post it.
i took this last winter. truly amazed by the level of surfing now days. what’s next?
this is my office in the winter time. i drive out early and fight for waves. nobody is nice out there and if you think somebody will just give you a 6-8′ backdoor wave, your kidding yourself. you have to work and compete for a wave that the whole world wants. thank goodness it’s only winter time.
if you don’t come to hawaii in the winter time and prove yourself, you won’t make it in the surfing industry. it’s the standard.
want to thank Pedro Gomes for sending me this awesome surf sequence of japan. yes, this is japan. let’s keep this spot a secret.
and glad to hear the tako “octopus” in Minami-soma, Fukushima is safe to eat. this is the first harvest since 3/11 and no radiation was detected. that’s great news for the Fukushima fishing community.
