yesterday would be considered a flat day of surf for hawaii standards. the reason is that nobody here knows what flat is unless you traveled to places that are flat. flat means no waves, flat means unridable. yesterday wasn’t flat. chest high and perfect to be exact.
Tanaka-san surfing into diamond head. cool photos kenny shot.
ouch! uni? sea urchin in the foot? itai!
there were so many waves that after both of my guys went on sets, then i was all alone on the outside as perfect waves came to me. did i go? of course!!!! after i caught about 10 waves, i was paddling out thinking to myself “nobody in the whole world has a better job than i do. and if somebody does, i’m happy for you!” surf your dream!
