WAC Championship Game at Aloha Stadium: ZERO TOLERANCE!!!

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good morning on this crazy shopping black friday. also the anticipated huge UH football game. it’s 5:45am and i couldn’t sleep. today is going to be nuts. i just came home from dropping off nao-chan with the moniz’s. they are heading down to makaha for the RELL SUNN MENEHUNE CONTEST. josh and seth are in it so the whole family went down to support them. as i was coming back home, the traffic was already building up. it’s going to be nuts.. as for the waves, not as big as they thought. the buoy is 14′ 15sec so not big enough for waimea bay. some outer reefs should be breaking and we’ll have to wait and see if the run the final day of the contest today at haleiwa. winds are out of the east so the north shores should be cleaning up. as for now, it still looks a little bumpy. town has a few small waves breaking at bowls. actually looks a little bigger than yesterday. anyway, it’s still dark outside. i can’t go back to sleep so i’ll get some work done and jump in the water when it gets lighted. but for now, i’m getting my green shirt ready for tonight’s game. got the best seats in the house. 50 yard line bottom on the UH side. it’s going to be nuts and i expect to lose my voice. GO WARRIORS!!!
some people are calling tonight’s game the biggest game in UH football history. some people are calling tonight’s game the biggest game of the Western Athletic Conference, and some people are calling tonight’s game the biggest game in hawaii history. i’m calling tonight’s game the BIGGEST GAME OF MY LIFE…. GO UH WARRIORS!!!

this was the headlines in yesterday’s paper. ZERO TOLERANCE!!! 130 police, the whole liquor commission, and a lot of security to stop the violence. even our coach jun jones was on the radio today telling fans to please be nice to the visiting team and fans. that’s not going to work. i guarantee a lot of fights tomorrow night. the only way to stop the violence at the stadium is to stop serving alcohol. that’s the only way…
**and for all of those japanese surfers in hawaii right now who don’t care about the game, go surf at 4pm today because nobody will be in the water. all eyes will be on the game…. and if we lose, don’t leave your hotel at night. there will be violence. and if we win, go to the nearest bar because somebody will buy you a drink. if you see me, i will….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide