first time to hawaii and first time surfing. meet the Kamata couple. both of them stood up on their first wave and were super energetic. we were surfing the inside for a while until i asked Kyousuke-san “hey, do you want to catch a big wave?” he said “YES!” i took him to the outside, a big set came, and he went! stood up, took the drop, and rode it all the way in. then he told me “i should have started surfing earlier!” i said “hey, you’re surfing now, and it’s never too late.” we had a super fun surf session and i was stoked to be a part of the start of their surfing careers.
coming to hawaii for the first time, it’s hard to experience everything. so yesterday, i tried to cover as much area as possible. from surfing, to eating pho, to tamura’s, to tantalas, to waiola shave ice, to antique aloha shirts, to whole foods, to kahala mall, to koko head, to sandy’s, to makapuu, to diamond head crater, to kcc farmers market, to driving around in waikiki. a full day tour which i’m sure made them tired when they got back to their hotel. i had fun and always like to see people’s expressions when they see things for their first time. To the Kikawa-san couple, thank you for a wonderful time yesterday. hope you enjoy hawaii and please keep on surfing! Aloha.
i scouted makapuu while i was there. i know where i’m going to start my long paddle from there to waikiki.
i decided to paddle from the shorebreak, catch a wave, then surf all the spots all the way to waikiki. might take 7 or 8 hours but i’m ready. i’m just wondering how i’m going to carry my water bottle? and camera?
there were these 2 guys out yesterday surfing with their little dogs. freaking classic! i’m going to try to hook up with them because i want to shoot photos and video. stay tuned!
