good morning. we went surfing yesterday evening at this semi-secret spot on the east side. after driving all that way, going through the bushes, walking on the rocks, and paddling 10 minutes to the lineup, i found myself surfing this little wave with 20 other surfers. secret spot? it might have been one until kinsan put the photos on his blog yesterday. i guess everybody here checks go-naminori for the secrets.. as for today, i ain’t saying where we will be. but i’ll be surfing somewhere for sure….
i also found a little sandbar near chatan where you can go grab shells on the low tide. this is 15 minutes worth. if i stayed any longer, i would have had a heat stroke. it was so dam hot….
this is another semi secret spot on the east side. i couldn’t believe how clean the water was. here is kimura-san and kinsan coming out of the water on a secret photo session…
and last, i’m glad that’s not my motorcycle. ouch….
