Pain…

268

good morning. i had another near death experience yesterday. my body got slammed straight into the reef shoulder first. i knocked out for a split second, my shoulder popped out, i cracked a rib, i got cuts on my foot, both knees, elbow, shoulder, my jersey has 2 holes, and i broke my board. if i was in hawaii, i would have called 911 and gotten air ambulance to queen’s hospital. i’m feeling kind of helpless now. i thought i’d be fine after i took pain killers and went to sleep but it hurts a lot more today. i’ve been on the phone all morning, on the computer, going crazy trying to find a hospital. i need to xray my whole body because there’s no way in the world i’m fine after what happened yesterday. wish me luck cause i’m going to need it…

this is just the minor part of my injuries. i haven’t been in this much pain since my first girlfriend dumped me…. and that was 25 years ago….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide