Good News or Bad News….

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good evening. today was pretty scary for me. good news or bad news? after the doctor was looking over my x-rays, he told me the good news. no broken bones or fractures. i asked him “then why the heck does it hurt so much?” he told me to take it easy for 2-3 weeks and everything will be ok. which is kind of impossible for me…

i wanted to thank tetsu-san and takahashi-san for taking care of me today. i will never forget your kindness… oh, and get this. the doctor gave me a discount after already the clinic giving me a discount. i told him “sorry, i’m a surfer” and he just laughed…. i swear, okinawan people are so caring and understanding….

i remember my mom spoiling me after going to the doctors office when i was a kid. i guess it was a reward for being brave or something. so i figured that because my mom isn’t here, i’ll just spoil myself… and you know what? it worked. i felt so much better after eating this creme burley….

and last, i couldn’t figure out why there was a glass case full of chickens in the middle of the lobby in the clinic… do you know why??
anyway, thanks again for your emails and calls. i’m ok now and since i can’t get a flight out of okinawa because of the typhoon, i’ll enjoy my last 2 days here cheering on the boys. day and night… haha… see you at hard reef!!!! and please don’t hug me or hit my shoulder because the pain is still killing me….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide