The Day After: Lucky Diving and Awesome Football….

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good evening. it’s almost 10pm and i just got home from a long day. brandon had his big boat out today so he invited us out for a day in the ocean. we took the girls, kelia, temari, alyssa, and nao into the deep sea to snorkel, swim, and tow surf. seen a big shark, a pod of dolphins, rode turtles. and had a blast. got some photos coming later. too tired to download it now. and my freaking cell phone is broken so can’t download the photos it took last night at the football game. got some sick ones. i’ve been going to UH football games for the past 20 years and after every game, some idiot tries to run on the field after we win. then there are the cops waiting and tackling the guys and arresting them. we always sit back and laugh because it’s pretty entertaining. well, last night, the same thing happened. we won the biggest game in the history of football in hawaii and everybody wanted to jump on the field to congratulate the players. there were cops EVERYWHERE!!! they looked like ants surrounding the field waiting for fools to jump over. then, it started, a couple guys went for it, they got tackled and hand cuffed. then there was more. and more, and more. so many people jumped that the cops couldn’t do anything but watch. then bobby and john were missing and i seen them going down. john made it, bobby got tackled but released, and i just couldn’t just sit in my seat anymore. i jumped on the field and went to celebrate with our WAC champions. i got some sick photos but i can’t download it off my phone cam. there were kids, grandpa’s and grandma’s on the field yelling and giving high fives to the players. i was awesome. i think i can speak for every hawaii football fan: “last night was the best game since the football program started”. i’m still buzzing about it…. GO WARRIORS…

oh, i almost forgot i went for a dive yesterday. my brother and his friends went for a short dive in town so i’d figure i’d go dive and then go straight to the game. when ever i dive in town, i don’t expect to catch anything. there’s just no fish. especially kumu’s and munu’s. if you get one, your lucky. anyway, here we are swimming back to the boat to end the dive and come across this ledge loaded with fish. it was about 40′ deep and looked like something i’d never seen before. loaded!!! this is score man…. if some guys told me they caught 15 big kumu’s and munu’s in town, i’d say they were lying. it’s unheard of. they sell these fish for $15/pound in the fish markets in hawaii. more than lobster. diving is only getting better. i love it….

load the cooler with fish, put some ice on it, and head to the UH football game. what an awesome day!!!!

this is nao ohmura. she’s a little 14 year old ripper from kugunuma, japan. she won the roxy contest earlier this year in shonan so they gave her a free ticket to hawaii. nao won a big contest in japan and qualified for the world contest that will be held in france next year. she surfs really good with a good style. and she just got sponsored by ROXY so expect this girl to blow up!!! for some reason, nao reminds me of my niece kelia. that’s why i always make trouble to her. haha… sorry nao…. anyway, if you want to check out nao’s blog, CLICK HERE….
if you want to learn how to get barreled, surf the inside bowl at kaisers. just take off, tuck your head, and you will get barreled for sure. or at least a head dip. that wave is really easy and if your small like seth, you can get barreled on the knee high waves too. seth, josh, and nao were getting barreled all morning yesterday…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide