good evening. yesterday was “THE DAY” here in okinawa. the waves were absolutely perfect and big. i had to sit on the beach all day watching barrel after barrel. and every time i seen an empty 6-8′ barrel unridden, it killed me.
this was a 8′ set that peeled perfectly like big off the wall in hawaii. i seen over a hundred empty barrels and it felt like somebody was poking my heart with a chopstick each time. it hurted…. and if you don’t know what i mean. try to imagine sitting on the hot beach for days and days. your thirsty. then there are 100 ice cubes in a box that you can’t open. and you just have to sit there watching them melt one by one. that’s how i felt yesterday…
i couldn’t handle it anymore. all my friends could see the frustration in my face. i was trying to get my arm moving but it wouldn’t. i’m still bummed that i couldn’t surf yesterday, but at the same time, happy to be alive….
then i woke up this morning to check out the corner. oh my gosh!!! i didn’t want to be frustrated another day so i grabbed my board, waxed it up, and tried to paddle out. my arm was in so much pain. i caught one wave using one arm and came back in. i could barely pull myself up the tetrapods to get out of the water. but you know what? just by jumping in the ocean, it refreshed my body, and soul…..
i need to move on and move on is what i’m going to do. i got a flight out of okinawa this afternoon and i still don’t know where i’m going or what i’m doing. i would love to go up a mountain, far away from the ocean, and enjoy the nature. let my arm heal properly hopefully in time for the next typhoon. i want to say thanks to all my old friends in okinawa, my new friends, and my new experiences. i had a great time considering what happened. thanks for the kindness and i will be back again this year. you can count on that!! well, i got to pack and leave. have a nice day!!!
and last, wanted to say hello to kaori-chan. nice sticker girl!!! go-naminori!!!
