Steamed Kumu and Pumpkin Pie….

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good evening. headed to the north shore to get a session in….

pulled up to laniakea today around 1pm. the waves were head high and super fun. not so crowded so we scored. it was nao’s first session on the north shore and she caught so many good waves. more than me. surfed for a couple of hours, ate some pumpkin pie, and headed back to town. the day wasn’t over….

we headed up to brandon’s pool. did some underwater training with nao. she held her breath for 24 seconds the first try. that’s normal and pretty average, but not good enough if you want to surf big waves. by her third try, she was holding her breath for over a minute. actually one minute 4 seconds. nao’s got a pretty strong mind. a few more times in the pool, she’ll be holding her breath for 2 minutes. the day wasn’t over…

this is my favorite chinese restaurant in the world. won’t say the name because it’s crowded enough. want to know how good it is? ask nao. check out the 2 kumu’s. so good….

this is how you eat fish. good night….
**finally got my cell phone fixed so i can downloaded these photos from the UH football game that will go in the history books…

so here i am sitting in my seat on the 50 yard line. the game just finished and was the biggest win ever for UH football. people started jumping over the wall and rushing the field. the cops were still surrounding the field but i seen kids, grandpa’s and pretty much everybody jumping over the wall. bobby and john headed down. i’m still yelling my head off because we won. felt a little left out so i said what the heck. jumped over and joined the party. this was the first, and probably last time fans will be on this field. i bet the cops and security are thinking of a way to keep everybody off after next weeks game. good luck with that….

i was making my way up to the middle. check out every body giving the #1 sign. and check out the stadium of 50,000 trying to come down to the field too….

this was the closest i got. see that WAC trophy on the right? i could have touched it… i will never ever forget that night….

and i got the proof i went…. this ticket is going in my scrap book…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide