My Naked Dream Girl

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good morning from wakayama. had a fun drive yesterday from tokyo to wakayama. only took 8.5 hours and guess what? i slept 5 hours. i got in the van, i jumped in the back, and slept. next thing you know, i was in wakayama. wanted to thank the wakayama boys for the ride. it’s been pretty hot here in japan. hundreds of people going to the hospital everyday for heat stoke and some people even dying. just yesterday, 4 people died and 916 hospitalized. and today is even HOTTER!!!! i walk 10 seconds outside and i’m sweating. and this heat wave is supposed to last another week. OMG! get me into the ocean!
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the boys came to pick me up from tokyo yesterday. i caught a train with my big suitcase, camera bag, and my surfboards. i was glad when ryosuke helped me carry my surfboards around.
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surfers in japan use a Hiace van. comfortably fits 6 surfers, luggage, and surfboards. this is japanese culture. this is fun, especially if you get to sit in the back on the bed.
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this was my breakfast for 2 days in a row in tokyo. if we had these restaurants in hawaii, i’d be there every morning. a great power breakfast.
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360 yen or $4. very affordable.
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last, i was eating at a little japanese restaurant in chiba when i seen this photo on the wall. this is an “Amasan” carrying lobsters and abalone. gosh, if i were growing up in japan and seen these Amasan’s in my village, i’d fall in love. have my girl walking around naked, going into the ocean and grabbing a few lobsters and abalone for dinner, then cooking it for me, then giving me a bath, followed by a massage. that would be a dream life. but i’m sure these kind of dreams don’t come true. haha.
anyway, glad to be in wakayama. hope to eat some Marutaya ramen for lunch, and hopefully jump in the water. the swell should be arriving tomorrow afternoon and i’m hoping to be in shikoku by that time. keep cool, drink lots of water, and have a wonderful day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide