gosh, it’s been over 2 weeks since i got hurt and i’m still feeling the pain. i get frustrated at times thinking about how much longer i can’t surf, or shoot, or dive. it’s the first time in my life and probably my biggest surfing injury. my friend from hawaii said i’m lucky that nothing worst happened. i think so too. i still have flashbacks of just missing the reef with my head and luckily hitting my shoulder. if i hit the reef with my head at that impact, my head would have split into two. that’s what scares me…. so for the past 2 weeks, when i’ve been feeling down and frustrated, i just tell myself, “it could have been worst”….
then looking at kinsan’s blog this morning, i felt the pain again. this is the spot we surfed for the first time. instead of getting all excited and jumping in, i should have checked the spot more carefully. if i seen how shallow it was in the inside, i wouldn’t have tried to pull in. anyway, what’s done is done and i learned a lot from this. i learned that life is more important than getting barreled. would i do it again? probably yes. but i will also have a little doubt in my mind and that’s what scares me. when your pulling into a wave like that, you can’t have any doubt. that’s how people get hurt. i have to work on getting that off my mind….
i took this photo last year at hokulea when kinsan fell asleep. it was funny at the time because he told me not to put it on my blog. i really wanted to post this because it shows that even the hardest working photographer in the world needs his sleep. i’ve never met a photographer that worked harder than kinsan. and it’s his motivation and energy that makes me motivated in anything i do. he takes his job 100% seriously and if you go on a trip with him, you better be ready. better be ready to surf huge dangerous waves breaking over knee high reef, better be ready to party at night, better be ready to drive all day, and be ready for pretty much anything, every day until the waves go flat….
kinsan posted a blog on that day i got hurt. check out his side of the story….
**CLICK HERE FOR SURF1ST PHOTOGRAPHERS KINSAN’S GO-NAMINORI BLOG…..
