i’ve known this little kid since he was born. Renosuke is one of the smartest 5 year old kids in the world. already speaks english, enters high level piano contests, and is part of a super shirasu family, yamari. for years, i wanted to take this kid surfing, today was the day. inounora was perfect size for renosuke’s first wave. had a blast!
every time i come to wakayama, i feel like home. people here are so nice, especially the kimura-san family. i can joke around, make trouble, act stupid, and do things i usually do at home. surfed, dove, ate ramen, and had fun. a typical day over here.
i didn’t bring any diving gear this time. why? because i forgot. good thing kimura-san has guns at his house for his guests, me. haha. i dove amasan style today. no wetsuit and no fins. i just loaded up my weight belt with a lot of weights, dove down, and had the hardest time trying to come up. the water was so dirty and it felt like forever trying to come up. but you know what? matsu and i did good!
2 divers in 30 minutes. enough seafood for 10 people. want to thank local fisherman Jiro-san for taking us out on his classic japanese fishing boat.
this is called “ishidai” and when i saw its silhouette in the dirty water, my mouth started to water. one shot in the head and that’s all it took. this is in the refrig now. tomorrow morning, this will be breakfast! can’t wait!
going to shikoku tomorrow! waves should be big! see you there!
