1-2 hours ago surf photos from Shikoku! good waves, good friends, good surfing, good barrels, good everything!!! this was this morning. i surfed 2x. going back out now!!! enjoy this hot surfing day in japan.
it’s good to see Mar Ohno. this is japan’s superstar that made it to the international level. super nice, super humble, and super good surfer!
Akila Shindou came from shonan this morning. a really smart thing to do because this is the best spot in japan on this july 31st day.
it was good to see Mikala Jones and Jun Jo here this morning too. 2 cool hawaiians enjoying the culture and waves.
super happy to see go-naminori blogger and mentawai boat member Ayaka Suzuki. she just came too. great timing!
Kenta Hayashi had the barrel of the morning. took off in a thick barrel, disappeared, and came out 6 seconds later. hope to get one of these later.
Kairi Noro asked me today how big the waves were. i told him 3-4′. this wave looks like 10′ for him. haha.
i came here with 2 surfboards. now i have 5 in my car. Matchi always taking care of his riders. a magic board can change your life.
anyway, it’s hot and i’m sweating in this car posting these photos because i know everybody wants to see them. the waves are super good and i’m super glad i came here. i’m going to go back out and surf for my third time. then eat lunch, then back out again. have a wonderful day and will be back with much more photos. shoots brah!!!
