good morning. after surfing epic crazy waves yesterday morning, we jumped in the car and headed to a fun mellow wave 40 minutes away. my new canon lens is proving excellent and it’s the best investment i’ve made in a long time. check out the surf from yugawara!
this is shun murakami’s local spot. i can’t believe how much this kids grown up. and can’t believe how good he’s been surfing recently.
shun has a younger brother named ren. i like his style, and i like his looks. a super cute kid that’s going to have all the girls chasing him in a few years. nice turn!
takami-san caught the longest waves at yugawara. i’ve been going there for the past 20 years and haven’t seen it that good before. super long open rights and lefts.
tokura-san’s always at the right place at the right time. that’s why we see each other so often. and if it wasn’t for his surf reports, i would have to minus about 1000 barrels from my life. he’s a key to my great life of barrels.
culture is everywhere here in japan. i don’t know what exactly these guys are doing, but it looked super cool when they walked into the surf.
ever since toda-san went on a diet, he’s been surfing really light and fast. i can’t tell you how hard it is to do a turn like this on a huge board. it takes power and finesse. toda-san has it all.
ryota’s been ripping too. super fast and super aggressive. he ended up breaking his tail on this board. and earlier yesterday, shun broke 2 boards. these kids are at a level that they need a lot of boards to keep up with the competition.
matsu’s a good surfer, good photographer, good person, and good friend. you can’t ask for any more in a person.
sharing is caring. matsu on the left, toda-san in the middle, and me on the right. thanks tomoyuki for taking this photo. i hope your nose isn’t broken from the shore break yesterday.
well, it’s 6am and ready to move. just have to wait for a few calls and we’ll be in the water. probably have about 2000 photos between matsu and i. when the waves go down, i’ll sort them out and show you what we’ve been doing for these past few days that seem like years.
i only have a few more days here in japan and i’m surfed out. i think i scored the best surf off these double typhoons. before i slept last night, i felt so happy to have so many good friends here in japan. i miss chasing typhoons and missed this feeling of total satisfaction. i’m coming back later this month and doing it all over again. are you ready????
