photo: toda
the reason i came to japan this trip was for this event. i know how important it is to get the fukushima kids back into the ocean that too so much away from them. i didn’t want to miss it and i’m glad i didn’t. yumie-chan and kiri-san did a great job in putting this school together. good job girls!
after the event, i was planning to stay in japan for a few days and hopefully surf a typhoon swell. no, i don’t have any control of typhoons. they come when they want to and go any direction they please. my friends in hawaii tell me they want to come to japan for a week and surf a typhoon. i tell them, no way. you have to put your time here and be super lucky. well, this time nobody could have been luckier than i. the typhoons sent perfect swells in both directions straight to the spots i wanted to be. the waves, the wind, and the weather was perfect. and now that i’m leaving today, guess what? the swells are all but gone. i come back here at the end of this month and if i score good waves, great. if not, great too. i just love being here and hanging out with my friends. but for now, my fun time is over. heading back to hawaii tonight and i’m looking forward to my own bed and my broken car. haha.
photo: matsukawa
guess how long this barrel was? 53 photos long. yeah, matsu took a 53 photo sequence of this barrel and i’m super lucky to be able to relive it. even if won a million dollar lottery, i wouldn’t be this happy. it was my moment i came out of an amazing tube. a moment that i will never forget.
photo: matsukawa
whenever i’m in wakayama, i always asked renosuke if he wanted to go surfing with me. he would say “no.” but this time when i asked him, he didn’t say anything. to me, that means “yes.” so we grab a board and head to the beach. now i have a new isounora beach partner. a new surfer is born! go-renosuke!
**click here for YAMARI BLOG for the rest of the photos!
