i can’t tell you how good it feels to be home. i was on standby with 63 others trying to get on the packed flight. i was number 37 and 15 minutes before the flight, the lady told me i couldn’t get on. i told her i was going to wait until the last minute and guess what? one person in business class didn’t show up at the gate in time so in i went! lucky or what? oh, wanted to say hello to the japanese flight attendant in business class. thank you for checking out my blog and i wish i at least got your name. gomen. but i’ll probably see you again. it was an awesome flight and i’m glad to be back home. a few south swells on the way and i’m already excited to surf again!
chasing the last typhoons was really fun. just the anxiety of trying to pinpoint the right spot at the right time is cool. been doing it for 20 years and i’ll never get bored. i’ll be doing the same thing at the end of this month too!
things change so fast when chasing waves. i ended up going to kimura-san’s house at midnight to return his car. i wouldn’t be able to do selfish things like this to normal friends, but to my surfer friends, we all know what has to be done for the ultimate wave. i’m glad we all think the same way.
this is 1am. did you know that yamari is open 24 hours a day? haha. just joking. it’s just for us.
my favorite little fishy!
and this is my normal yamari breakfast. unbelievable!
36 degrees outside? are you kidding? that’s almost a 100 degrees!!! now that i’m back in hawaii, i realize how hot japan was. scary hot. better drink lots of water or you might black out.
i spent 2 weeks with matsu starting in hawaii. so many things happened within that time that it seemed like 2 years. i have to sit down to recollect everything that happened. it was pretty sad saying by on the shinkansen ride back to tokyo. hey matsu, thanks for everything. and i’ll see you in thailand very soon!
