good evening. gosh, how was that thunder and lightning lastnight and this morning. kind of scary. took a pass by diamond head and oh my gosh, the waves were going off!!! absolutely no one out. i’ve never ever in my lifetime seen not even one surfer in the water from kaiko’s to lighthouse. there were two reasons. the lightning, and nobody knew about this south swell. so even i was lucky…
we walked down to the beach and sat down to check the waves. right on the side was this hawaiian monk seal hanging out. he scared the shit out of me. took this snap and went in for a surf. came back out at 11:30am and he was still there….
surfed cliffs with 2 guys out. then paddled down to lighthouse and had it to ourselves. overhead and perfect. score baby….
then we went back this afternoon and this monk seal was still here in the exact same spot. it walked up to it and took this snap. he’s kind of cute. we surfed for 2 hours, came back in at 4:30pm and he was still there. i bet if you go there tomorrow morning, he’ll still be there.. but just don’t touch or distrub him. i made a few wonk!! wonk!! noises and he didn’t seem too happy about that… he gave me the same kind of look a girl gave me in a bar after i spilled my drink on her…
anyway, got 2 solid round in. more surf all over the place. north, south, east, and west. maybe the eddie aikau this saturday? check back…. goodnight….
