Hawaii Concrete Jungle!

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good morning. new south swell! the waves should be perfect all day long! and all week long. glad to be back in the water yesterday. jumped in and felt so refreshed. the waves are so clean and fun. and the water is sooooo clean! most of the kids went back to school so summer is over for them. as for me, my summer never ends! see you in the water.
HK
this is the house i grew up in from 3rd to 6th grade elementary. i drove by there the other day to take a look and try to recollect memories. honestly i had some good, and some bad memories in that house. good ones like watching mohammad ali fights, good ones like eating dinner with my grandparents, good ones like playing with my friends. then you got the bad ones i’d rather not talk about. it’s kind of horrifying how you can stop and stare at a place you grew up in and all the memories come back. the more you stare, the more it comes back. i blocked out my childhood memories and recently it’s all coming back. some i want to remember, and some i don’t. but i’m not complaining because what ever happened in my childhood shaped the way i am today. gosh, now that i look back, i went through a lot as a kid…..
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what the heck happened to ala moana????? when i was growing up, there was only building there. 1350 ala moana blvd, that small old one in the left front. now things got out of hand and i hate to even go down there because of the traffic. each condo sells for over $1M and it pisses me off that i can’t afford one. haha. i just hope they stop putting up new condos in hawaii because it can’t be good for our environment.
**last. i bet the guy putting this yacht in the water got fired! haha.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4R56EeRdgFs[/youtube]

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide