today the waves came up! had some head high and overhead sets in town. surfed 2 rounds and super sunburnt again. everybody told me that when i left for japan, the waves were flat! then yesterday it finally came up again. lucky me huh? and for the people who looked at my blog and want to know where those river mouths are, i’m sorry. i want to keep my fingers. haha. but hey, the water is clean, we have swell, and the tradewinds are cool so nobody can complain living here in hawaii. it felt so good to be in the water all day. keep on surfing!
check out my surf buddy today. Marine-kun is only 6 years old and he surfed with me all morning. i had him on the front of my surfboard and we rode so many good long waves from the outside. a really brave kid because the waves were huge for his size. his papa Nakamura-san was on the outside getting good ones too. super fun sessions today.
it must be a fathers dream to take his son out and surf together. it’s moments like these that will be cherished forever. hey Nakamura-san, see you tomorrow. let’s go get some barrels!
surf forecast: good solid 3′ south swell all week. some 4′ sets!
weather forecast: super sunny with cool tradewinds all week.
endless summer!
and last, check this monster out. if you ever see one in the water, please exit immediately!!!!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f9Pkf75yX0[/youtube]
