another long day in the water. surfed 2 rounds and i can’t believe how my skin is holding up. super burnt!!!! but the cool water and cool tradewinds are keep my mind in peace. the waves were chest high and super fun. morning sickness in the morning, but perfect in the afternoon. super happy to be able to surf every single day. don’t know what i’d be doing without the ocean. thank you mother nature!!!
Yutaro started surfing 2 years ago. he has super good balance, super good paddling energy, and lots of motivation. a very smart kid that speaks english, had lots of common sense, and will make it big in this world. hey Yutaro, had super fun surfing with you this morning. hope to see you in the water again! enjoy hawaii.
Yutaro wanted to eat something healthy? straight to my favorite vietnam pho on this island. super good!
i’m going to possible post a gallery of photos tomorrow if i have the time tonight after dinner. here is a sneak peak. JPSA grand champ yujiro! i knew this grom since he was 10 years old. good to see him ripping!
takami-san going down the line on a good right at a river mouth. i’ve known takami-san for over 20 years. such a nice person!
my 2 brothers! toda-san and matchi. decades of friendship between the 3 of us.
even on the small days, the waves in shikoku are perfect. clean water, warm, and lots of off the lips!
a good river mouth has both a right and a left. this is a good river mouth. this is stewart surfboard boss with the big bottom turn!
