good evening. gosh, the waves were good all over the island today…. winter season is here!! sunburned, red eyes, rubber arms, surfed out, and black skin. that’s me… i haven’t been surfing so much in my whole lifetime. surfed 5 hours yesterday and 4 hours today. more waves on the way. all i have to say is, oh my gosh…
check this photo from surfline. this was the first good day at pipe/backdoor. and this was nov. 28th. you think march and april will have good pipe days too? i think so….
drove by diamond head this morning. the waves were good again. little smaller than yesterday and much more crowded…. but still epic for november…
and check out lighthouse. this was 8am. everywhere in town was head high and perfect. hope you got some good waves today because i sure did…
pulled up to haleiwa around 2:30pm. watched it for a while and it looked 3′ or so. grabbed my small board to go and get a few. as i got out, some sets started to roll in. shit, the waves were pretty big. solid 6′ with maybe bigger sets. managed to get a few waves all across. i’m feeling pretty good at this point in the winter season. kind of surfed out but still want more. can’t wait till tomorrow morning because the north shore is going to be going off again. sleeping at 8pm. goodnight….
this was the other night at chucky cheeses. seth, josh, and kelia racing….
and last, this is colt. he’s the man right now. when everybody rushed the field at last weeks game, somebody tried to steal his helmet right out of his hand. i wonder how much that would have been worth on ebay? anyway, a couple other football players got their helmets ripped off. that really sucks because it just ruins it for everybody. now they are going to make it much harder for people to get on the field. so a couple of dummies ruined it for 50,000 fans… please return the helmets….
***and last, check out nao’s interview in the new surfing world magazine that came out today…
