it’s been a year and 4 months since Inaida-san and Yuki-san first touched a surfboard. they started from the very beginning in everything from paddling, standing, and style. i look back at the first photos i have and it’s funny how fast things changed. now they are great paddlers, great surfers, and have cool style. surfing with this group is fun and i’m always laughing. the wipeouts, the freak “obake” sets, and the jokes. we have a lot of fun in and out of the water. i’m stoked to see how surfing brightens peoples lives up. you can just see it in the smiles.
i use to have to tow everybody out and in. now, everybody can surf on their own and are getting healthier and fit. i see shoulder muscles that weren’t there a year ago. surfing his healthy and if you surf, you don’t need the gym.
style is everything. this is style. this is everything. Inaida-san on a robert august 9’6.
Yuki-san got hurt a year ago. she hit her chin on her board and had to go to the hospital. a lot of people would have quit surfing, but not this girl. super strong, super talented, and always happy in the water. a lot of my friends are amazed on how good she got. it takes some people over 5 years to get to Yuki-san’s level. amazing.
Nomura-san is one of japan’s best personal sports trainers. super nice guy and super strong. it’s so cool to see him so happy after surfing. my goal this year is to get him to quit golfing and start surfing more. it’s a much less stressful life. haha.
getting better in surfing doesn’t just happen in the water. you have to train mentally and see yourself in photos or videos. we train in and out of the water and that’s why everybody surfs so good. my goal is to get everybody barreled someday. once they get barreled, their life will never be the same. yeah, it even gets better! i’ve been surfing my whole life and i will never get bored. big waves or small waves, i love the ride! hope you do too!
