i take lots of people surfing in hawaii. before i paddle out, i always tell them that they can ride in front of me. yeah, my wave is their wave and i’ll give them any wave i get. but sometimes people think that it’s ok to ride in front of anybody. well, not here in hawaii. riding in front of somebody or “dropping in” is not a good thing to do. if you’re lucky, the guy might tell you to go in. if you’re unlucky, the guy might punch you a couple of times. i hear about it and see it a lot of times. it’s just part of mannerism here in hawaii and other places around the world. or also known as a rule. if you surf with me, i’ll give you all my waves. but if you don’t surf with me, please be careful. this spot in the photo is kewalo’s, one of the most localized spots on the island. if you paddle out there and drop in, please don’t tell anybody you know me. you’re on your own.
hey Aya-chan, i’m glad you got your shells in the mail. take care and keep on smiling!
and Michiko-san, glad you got your shells too. congratulations on your marriage! see you september in hawaii. hope we get some good waves again!
