good evening. where did you surf today? i surfed a place where it was perfect! knee/waist high and super long perfect rights. good for long boarding and having fun with my friends. what a beautiful day it was!!!!
i’ve been looking for a new car for the past 6 months and i think i finally found it!!! this is called a Conquest Evade and it’s only $597,000, or 47 million yen! haha. i could never afford something like and even if i did, i wouldn’t buy it. i’d rather take my friends on a boat trip to the mentawai’s!
but hey, you have to agree with me that it looks pretty dam cool! imagine me pulling into the parking lot at pipeline with boards on the roof. haha. i would be the most hated person in hawaii.
still didn’t get to go through all the photos i took on my last trip. this was shikoku day 1. it was 3′, sunny, clean water, and super fun. reika noro backside.
toda-san lost a lot of weight. he told me he can finally see his own feet. haha. but in surfing, the lighter you are, the faster you will go. 2 fins out on the big bottom turn.
i promise all the photos are coming in the next day or so. just so much going on. been surfing everyday having fun! then planning to go on a trip next week so have lots to do.
have a great evening!!!
