good morning. 6am on this first day of december. gosh, 25 more days till christmas. so fast…. the waves suck today. west winds blowing already in town making junky conditions. the north shore came up. 8-10′ at pipeline with semi-clean conditions. but it should blow out by 10am. tonight’s the big UH football game. can’t wait to lose my voice again. like i said last week, if we win, everybody will be happy. but if we lose, go straight home after the game because there will be a lot of pissed off people roaming the streets. last week was our biggest game in history. tonight’s game is even bigger. GO WARRIORS….. have a nice day….
all 11 of us went to bubbies ice cream last night. gosh, i love that place. and right on the front door has this sticker. yes, i love hawaii too….
nao is leaving today. she came here 10 days ago and surfed kaisers, kewalos, diamond head, v-land, haleiwa, ehukai, laniakea, pipeline, backdoor, and even waimea bay. did some tow surfing and paddle board surfing. and even played with a wild boar. she said she had fun but the best thing she told me on this trip was hearing my funny jokes everyday. haha. just joking… this girl got talent and is going to have a golden career. have a safe flight home nao and see you next year!!!
this is page 114-115 of surfing world cloud 9 article. the left side is kazuya sato. this is a secret left that won’t be secret for long. and on the right is mikala jones doing a sick grab rail cutback after getting shacked…..
