Keep a Secret a Secret…

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it felt good to finally do my laundry. sorry for being stinky for the past month.. haha…

i went to the supermarket to get some food for breakfast. natto, mozuku, raw egg, tofu, and miso soup to go along with my yamari shirasu. yummy… then i got a coke for my jack, and finally melona ice cream for dessert….

i was surfing at kaifu yesterday and this girl was waving at me. i thought she had the wrong person because i don’t know any girls here. it turned out to be ai-chan. ai-chan is a dove model that lives in tokyo. it’s her first time here to shikoku. what a small world…..

and last, i got an email from a guy asking me to tell him where this spot we surfed in timor was. hey, even if you were my best friend, i wouldn’t tell you. that’s the part of exploring. a secret is a secret. and i’m good at keeping secrets….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide