hello hello, wow, my frustrations are almost all but gone. i’ve pretty much been holding in my feelings when i couldn’t really surf for the past month. i’m 80% now and can actually get barreled. that’s all that matters now. and to be at this river mouth, i think i’m at the right place. typhoon 11 brought some pretty solid surf. and the sunrises? oh my gosh… photos coming soon….
this is my boss. yasan owns TSSC surfboards and i’m stoked to be able to surf with him. go yasan!!!
want to know how big the waves were yesterday? what do you call this? overhead? i say solid 4′ hawaiian scale….
this place is magic. the cleanest river mouth in japan. if you jump in the river, there’s no need to take shower. i haven’t showered since i got here. haha.. here’s yasan and hatabo-san coming in after an evening session…
and last. yesterday, i was eating my ice cream while online. then hayato skyped me so we started a video chat. he turned on his video first and the first thing i seen was a half eaten ice cream. i was confused. i was wondering why my ice cream was in his video??? eeh?? oh my gosh!! it turns out that hayato was eating the exact same ice cream as i was and we were almost exactly at the same point in finishing it. i turned on my video and when he saw my ice cream, we started laughing… gosh, what are the chances of that???? it was actually pretty dam scary. haha….
