good morning. what a week it’s been. i surfed everyday 2 or 3 rounds and i still want to surf. i guess taking a month off from surfing made me appreciate every and any kind of condition. luckily, it’s been pretty dam good. i’ve been eating healthy and moving around a lot so my body feels good too. i lost 2 kilos and i will probably lose more because the waves just won’t go away. between my rounds of surfing yesterday, i shot some photos and got some really good ones. got a sick barrel shot of kairi that looks like backdoor. stay tuned….
this is reki. i’ve known reki before he even had hair on his balls. he must have been 12 or something and i remember him and yujiro walking around the ASP contest at ikumi beach collecting everybody’s autographs. those 2 kids had the biggest smiles on their faces and that’s what i remember about them the most. now yujiro is a JPSA contest competitor, who even won an event. and reki is jamming his guitar and playing live music all over japan. back 15 years ago, i would have never imagined sitting down and having a drink with this kid. gosh, how time flies….
although reki loved hanging around the ASP events, he hated surfing contests. he quit and became a soul surfer. and a soul surfer he is. nice grab rail cutback reki….
and last, i have a few pen pals that travel around japan searching for the perfect wave. this was last week. oh my gosh!!!! i want some of that. thanks for the photo dude….
