good evening. still the big news in hawaii is not the the shitty waves, it’s UH football. SWEET!!! sugar bowl on new years day in new orleans. i really want to go but have to think about it. $2,000 not including the game ticket. kind of steep. i know that is a once in a lifetime thing and i don’t want to miss out. heard all travel agents today were slammed by emails and phone calls. i wish i can paddle my surfboard there…. as for the POLICE concert, a second show was added. tickets on sale saturday at 9am. can somebody please pick me up one??? please??? anyway, had a fun day today. going to stay home the next few days and catch up on emails and stuff. junky big surf on the way so not missing anything. have a great evening….
when i check the waves at diamond head, i drive down this hill. that way, i can see the size of the waves and the winds before i get there. if it’s junky looking, i make a left turn, jump on the freeway, and head somewhere else. if it’s good, i step on the gas and will be there in 2 minutes. and not to mention, this is a pretty killer view….
SURFING LANI is a program in japan on sky perfect tv. it’s kind of like japanese ESPN. this show features the daily lifestyle of surfers in hawaii that have some kind of connection with the ocean. i was pretty stoked they chose me for one of their shows. now everybody is going to see my hair standing up in the morning and the natto trail coming out of my mouth. haha. i had a lot of fun working with these guys today. makoto-san on the left is the coordinator here in hawaii for tv shows and photo shoots. makoto surfs a lot here and goes back and forth to japan. super cool guy. then it’s the director and president of free films inc., jisai-san. jisai san surfs too. he travels the world directing and producing all kinds of shows for japan tv. what a great job he has. and on the right is the camera man yamada-san. yamada-san has the coolest job because he can travel the world. something i wouldn’t mind doing at all. anyway, thanks guys for the fun day…..
check this photo of TSSC shaper Glenn Minami. he’s pulling into a huge wave at huge haleiwa. and yes, he made it. i wish i had a photo of me pulling into haleiwa like this. this takes balls. big balls…
and last. page 116-117 cloud 9 article. hayato pulling into a rainy day barrel over knee high deep reef.. 14 page article in a major japanese magazine. stoked!!! good night….
