A Surfers Smile….

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there are so many kids now days surfing here in japan. it’s a pretty awesome feeling watching them grow and progress. i just wish my nephew’s and niece were here sharing the waves, making friends, and pushing each other to another level. i’m living in the dream world now and i would love to see my nephews and niece do the same thing. so here is a message for them:
“get your asses over here! stop wasting your money on jamba juice smoothies and ipods. save your money for a ticket and come to japan for an experience of a lifetime. yeah, kewalo’s is a great wave but nothing compared to this. DO SOMETHING!!”


this is reika noro, kairi’s older sister. i took her surfing one day at 3′ velzyland 2 years ago. i’m pretty sure she was crying inside when i was yelling “go!” she was really scared. since then, her level of surfing improved so much that i was surprised to see her charging this past weekend. but at the same time, i was happy. she’s only 14 years old and has dreams of championships…. go reika!!!

i’ve been seeing this kid everyday here. i don’t know his name but i can see his smile from miles away. this kid has a radiant smile that just beams. if you have a great smile, you will have a great future in what ever you do. this kid will go far in the surfing world for sure. how’s his little barrel yesterday off the left? sick!!! good luck kid. and keep on smiling….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide