good evening. gosh, what a long day it was today. i woke up at 4am and thought the waves were flat so i started responding to emails. then at 7am, this little bird came to my window and whispered something to me. “hey kirby, the waves are super good and barreling down the road.” i told the bird “your joking. that’s impossible, the typhoon is gone.” then he whispered again “forget breakfast, and get your dam ass to the beach right now!” so i skipped my breakfast, grabbed my camera and surfboard, jumped into my porsche, and flew down to the beach. i actually beat the bird down there…..
i pulled up and this is what i saw. perfect 3′ barrels with only 5 guys out. should i shoot? should i surf? i was so confused. then the bird flew over me and said “do both!!” so that’s what i did. i shot and surfed for 3 hours straight. i took photos of barrels, and i got barreled myself. so you ask me what i had for breakfast? i had barrels for breakfast!!! and i was full….
this morning was the cleanest day since i got here. the barrels were crystal and so was the water. look at the river rocks sitting on the bottom. cool yeah….
when i got there, matchi was already out getting barreled by himself. i guess the little bird went to his house first….
then munetoyo tanaka pulled up after and got a few barrels of his own. i couldn’t believe how perfect the waves were today. after i shot a few photos, i grabbed my board and paddled out. and guess what? i got barreled on my first wave. and got barreled again and again. then i jumped into my porsche, drove back to my beach front castle, ate lunch, took a nap, ate ice cream, and went surfing again. gosh, what a life!!! and just wanted to say thank you to that little bird that made my day…[:?????????:]
