Surfing is My Life…..

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good evening. what a hectic day here in hawaii. fallen trees, fallen telephone poles, blackouts around the whole island, flooding, high winds, lightning, high surf, and pretty much every advisory posted. wanted to stay home and get some work done but my internet, telephone, and cable were all out. so couldn’t get anything done except clean up. and get this, the worst isn’t over yet. more bad weather on the way. i guess it’s our rainy season here in hawaii so can’t complain because at least it’s still warm. as for surfing or diving? forget it. the ocean is dangerous and the water is dirty. going to chill for a couple more days and go for a surf somewhere. until then, kick back and relax. catch up on some work and rest. have a great evening…. by the way, buoy 1 jumped up to 26 feet, 15 seconds. yikes. huge huge surf on the way…. stay tuned…

check out these photos from the honoluluadvertiser.com. this was today in waikiki. probably one of the few days of the year that not one soul is in the water…

this is kapiolani park. now you know how strong the winds were today. nuts…

i told everybody to stay in the house. why didn’t you listen??

and last, you meet the coolest people through surfing and traveling. here we are on this island in the philippines. from left to right: indonesia, japan, philippines, and hawaii. and the trippy thing is that we all knew each other for years before we took this photo last september. this was just another freak chance that we met again. and you know what? i’ll probably meet these same guys again in some other country in the future… so when jisai-san interviewed me the other day and asked me what surfing meant to me. i told him that surfing is my life. it’s about traveling, connecting with people, and connecting with the ocean. surfing is my life and everything else just revolves around it…. if your a traveling surfer, you know exactly what i’m talking about….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide