good morning, after 2 long surfed out weeks in shikoku, i finally got back here to wakayama. yeah, i had to return my porsche. that sucked…. i just checked the forecast and look what’s coming….
yup, lucky me gets to surf more and more now. i was planning to go back to hawaii this weekend but my plans just changed. i’m going to surf this next typhoon, then go back home. and if another forms again after that, i will surf that one too. that’s my job and somebody’s got to do it. so where am i going? umm… wait to see…
i found this photo of me getting ready to dive in the japan a few years ago. i couldn’t and still can’t believe how much trash there was on that beach. it was just lined up with all kinds of crap. i was pretty disappointed…. and still am. don’t be a litterbug. everybody please throw away their trash….
it would kill me to see surf spots looking like this in the future. without our precious ocean, we would all be dead….
**and last, i want to thank everybody in shikoku for taking care of me and sharing their waves. that was probably the most i’ve ever surfed in a 2 week period in my life…. doomo arigato gozaimasu….
