time is flying by so fast. so many days, so many waves, and so many photos. i just took a peak into my iphoto and seen some photos i forgot downloading. this was day 4 of 4 excellent waves in japan. it was hot, it was humid, and the waves were going off! it’s unbelievable how good it was and no waves went to waste. i have a full gallery but have to ask permission before i post it. i want to surf there again and don’t want to cause any kind of trouble. but for now, here is a sneak peak of typhoon 10.
for the past 10 years, i’ve never seen toda-san so lean. and for the past 10 years, i’ve never seen toda-san throw this much spray before. this is power, this is speed, and this is the new lightweight toda-san! photo by me.
matsu is kind of like me in a way. he’s patient, watches the waves carefully, and chooses the best time to be in the water. he paddles out, catches the best waves, and paddles back in with a big smile on his face. this session, he was in the water for 20 minutes and caught 4 perfect open left handers. very efficient surfing! photo by toda-san.
and yes, right or left, i like to get barreled. after surfing perfect rights for 3 days straight, it was refreshing to get barreled backside. check out the river pebbles in the front. cool yeah? now imagine wiping out and hundred of these cool rocks are flying around in every direction. it’s just a matter of time one will hit you. you can either get a bump, get stitches, or knock out. it’s the risks of surfing that makes it exciting for me. the more dangerous, the more exciting. surf your dream everybody! photo by matsu? or toda-san? either way, it doesn’t matter because We Are One!
