good morning. gosh, what a long day it was yesterday. i had a headache all day from the awamori i drank the night before so i was in the back seat of the car sleeping all the way to and back from surfing. it takes over 2 hours to get to the other side of the island but once you get there, it’s well worth it. the green mountains, sandy beaches, and blue water. cant’ beat it….
the waves were pretty fun. i just wish i brought my single fin…. shucks….
these 3 guys are okinawa locals. yashi on the left is the head bartender at hard reef. i visit this guy almost every night. he’s seen me in my finest form… haha… if you ever hear “have a nice day” coming from yashi, you better run because “have a nice day” really means “ha-bu-sa-ke”, or snake sake… and once he pours you a shot, you have to take it. the guy in the middle is youichi-san. he’s a hard core okinawa local. when ever i see him, i feel like i’m looking at one of my good friends back in hawaii. yeah, he reminds me of tat’s, or “eddie”. they look alike, surf alike, and drink alike. and both are super cool and funny guys. then kazubo-san on the right. i think his parents should have named him “mensore”. because that what kazubo-san is. so much aloha!! if he were to run for the government position of okinawa, he could win. everybody loves kazubo-san….
oh, i wanted to thanks to kiyomi-san for yesterdays wonderful breakfast. gosh, i felt like a hawaiian king sitting in the yard with t-leaves, hibiscus, plumeria, eating this awesome breakfast. then when the mango and pineapple came out, oh my gosh…. just like hawai….
and last, i’ve been staying at the club house with the best view around. yeah, i wake up, turn my head a little to the left, and see the deep blue ocean right in front of me. at night, i can hear the waves, and also see the stars from my bed. everynight before i sleep, i put on some okinawa music, stare at the stars, and fall into dreamland. i love this place…. this is a photo i took a month ago when the waves were 8-10′ right in front. this balcony is like the jerry lopez house balcony over there in front of pipeline. everybody is here…. so i’m hoping the waves don’t get good right in front because my dream house will turn into a party house. haha…
