Keep on Surfing with Mr. Takasu

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good evening. great to be back to japan. as soon as i got off the airplane, i felt the summer heat. over 20,000 people went to the hospital this year because of the heat and it continues. better keep drinking more and more water. well, got here at 1pm and did what i’m not supposed to do, take a nap. slept for 2 hours and now it’s 5:30pm and i feel like it’s morning. OMG! gotta run to an amazing dinner. then sleep, wake up, meeting, then jumping on another airplane. here goes another one of my journeys!
oh, i want to say sorry to Gordinho for not giving him photo credit for the tony moniz photo i posted this morning. somebody sent me that photo a while back and i didn’t know who took it. but now that i know who took it, i want to give credit to Gordinho. mahalos!
i still can’t believe i’m in japan again. been coming here so much that it seems so close. i watched a movie, i closed my eyes, and next thing, i was in japan. cool!
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finally downloaded my camera so stay tuned for photos. here is Mr. Takasu from Japan. 50 years old and very strong!!!!
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Surfer for 20 years and keep on going!
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So many good waves! Hope to surf with you again Mr. Takasu!
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Surf/Hawaii/Waikiki/Ocean. a perfect day! keep on surfing!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide