good morning. gosh, we scored yesterday!! we went to check this spot that if you get to surf it once in your lifetime, your lucky. it was 10 years ago when we all surfed it for the first time. since then, it broke only a couple of times and i heard it wasn’t too good. every time i come to okinawa, i hope to surf there. so when this typhoon course was looking like the same one 10 years ago, i knew we had a chance. kimura-san and i paddled out. there were 2 other guys that just went out too. satoru-san came out an hour later. us 5 took turns surfing a spot that you could only dream of. after we came back home, i took a nap for 2 hours….. i’m satisfied for the next 10 years….
after surfing for 3 hours, we were hungry. kimura-san is one of the few lucky surfers in the world that is going to experience what we experienced yesterday. if i get to surf there one more time in my lifetime, i’m going to drink a whole bottle of habusake and surf naked…. i took a few lineup photos. stay tuned…
hey jack, it was good seeing you out there. it’s been 10 years yeah? sorry we couldn’t paddle out for round 2. we were just too dam tired. nice wave dude….
i grabbed a hand full of shells back in north sumatra. in okinawa, i filled up my pockets 5x already. and i ain’t done yet….
and last, i took this photo of myself when i reached the top of mt. fuji. there are like 10 happy moments in my life and this moment is one of them…. life doesn’t get happier than this….
