Okinawan Friends…

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good morning. i’m enjoying my stay here on this beautiful island in okinawa. it’s my 15th time or so over the past 10 years and i’m coming back again next month. will i ever get bored of coming here? no way…. next to hawaii, this is my second paradise…. i’ve become attached to the people, food, and culture. i’m sure going to miss here and don’t even want to think that i’m leaving here soon…

10 years ago, this spot never existed. we use to drive by it and just go surf the outside reefs. i guess we never even stopped by to look at it. so passing by it yesterday blew my mind away when i seen people surfing it. and the waves were pretty dam good. it was cool seeing so many okinawa people enjoying the ocean….

i’ve met some cool people since i started doing my blog. and i’m amazed on how many people check it, especially in okinawa. so i wanted to take this time out to say hello to everybody in okinawa. you guys are cool!!! cool island, and warm hearts!! and also wanted to thank okinawan local surfer girl megumi-chan too. you rip girl!!! see you at suicides…..
**and last, to my friends in hawaii and japan. sorry i’m behind on my emails. but please don’t write or call me and ask me when i’m coming back because even i don’t know that myself. for the past 17 years, it’s been like that and it will never change. i come back when i’m done with everything here. and i’m not even close to done here so i ain’t even thinking of going back. the only thing that predicts my return to hawaii is the ocean, and the ocean is unpredictable. once i’m surfed out, worked out, and ready to go back to hawaii, i’m jumping on a plane that night and flying home. and nothing is going to stop me. living out of a suitcase for over 2 months is tiring on my body and mind. so once i see the light back to hawaii, i’m taking it. so when am i going back to hawaii? i told you not to ask. especially when there is the biggest super typhoon of the year spinning off the coast of japan right now…. haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide