good morning from west japan. been busy since i came to here and like always, there is no time to relax. i’ve been on the go and when people ask me where i’ll be the next day, i really can’t answer because i don’t even know myself. been taking lots of photos but no time to even upload them on my computer. here’s a few for now.
waking up every morning chasing typhoons is fun. you get to see the sunrise, sunset, and everything in between. this is in between.
i caught a few right barrels on day 1 and when i came out, this was my view. are you kidding me???? no, i’m not. this is japan, this is nature, this is surfing, and this has been my life for the past 20 years.
photographers, surfers, and much more. everything is documented on this trip and these memories will last forever.
i like watching peoples reactions when they check the waves. it’s like a drama on the beach. pretty cool surf culture here.
day 1 was head high and super fun. just perfect little waves for everybody. it’s days like these when i get confused. surf? shoot? ahhh, do both.
the new light weight toda-san. surfing with lighting speed.
you meet the coolest people where ever you go. every spot, every beach, every river, every prefecture has different people. this is shizuoka.
kinsan never misses anything. if you catch a wave when he’s shooting, he’ll get your photo. and he’s been doing this for the past 40 years?
kamio is another professional photographer. he shoots and he surfs. must be hard from him to make a decision on what to do too. i know that feeling but if you do choose to surf, you won’t be let down. it will be a happy day.
kamio style. surf/shoot/smile. a great guy.
day 2 of typhoon 15. if this was hawaii, there would be 300 people out fighting for the waves. it’s been the worst summer in hawaii, but the best summer in japan.
this was yesterday. i get off the 4 hour long train ride carrying 60 kilos of luggage. we eat ramen and i’m super full. we pull up to the beach to check the waves. i see 6′ empty waves just peeling right in front of me. i unpack my board, i put on the fins, wax it up, paddle out, and score! i didn’t think life was supposed to be this good. are you kidding me????
the waves are 2x bigger today. we just came back from checking it out. 3pm is high tide so from 10am, it will get bigger and bigger. the locals are saying 10′ hawaiian scale. i’m hoping for that or even bigger. typhoon 15 is now 920hpa which puts it in a catagory 5 super typhoon. i’m actually getting nervous. going to eat some breakfast and surf some big waves today. hope you’re getting some too.
last, want to wish Local Motion Maki-san a HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!! wish you were here.
