the other morning i go for a surf by myself. i drive, park in terra-san parking lot at isounora, i walk to the right, and i watch the waves. looks fun! i grab my board, i don’t know how to paddle out so i jump off the jetty in front of a huge wave. i start getting to the lineup and there is starts. “itai, itai, itai.” something is biting me. little chikui or sea lice biting my whole body. i hold it in, catch 3 waves, paddle in, and ever since, i’m super itchy all over my body. the worst feeling sweating at night scratching all over your body. i don’t know how the other guys stayed out so long. but the waves were 4-5′ and good so i guess that’s why.
we wake up early, check out this other super secret spot, and see only 4 guys out. the waves were 4-5′ and clean. it’s unbelievable how many good secret surf points there are in japan. i love it!
