good morning from hot japan! still hot over here and not looking like it’s cooling down anytime soon. only have a day more here in japan and lots of things to do. took lots of photos again but no time to post them. can somebody help me? haha. i’m seriously thinking of getting a secretary soon. my life is becoming too complicated for me. just can’t keep up with myself. everybody says i should slow down but slow is not in my vocabulary. don’t want to waste time and don’t want to miss anything.
my favorite nabe in hawaii is taiwan nabe. my favorite nabe in japan is motsu nabe. it’s hormones and vegetables cooked in a tasty broth. i love it! this place is in tokyo in shinjuku. where? i don’t remember the name, but i remember where it was. i’ll be going back there again and again.
ate there the other night with go-naminori sales ryosuke, and go-naminori writer hikaru. two very smart people that will take this site to another level. we eat, we talk, and we do!
i surfed another secret river mouth yesterday. there were rights, lefts, barrels, fun waves, and many happy surfers. we surfed 2 sessions and it was an awesome feeling sharing waves with locals and friends. i think i’m addicted to surfing in japan. the roots are deep and i want to go even deeper.
this was the left yesterday. a little shoulder high compact barreling wave. you fall, you hit the bottom. super shallow and super fun.
this is local style surfing. park the car early morning, put up the tents, surf, talk, laugh, surf, talk, laugh. as far as scenery, this has to be my favorite place to feel the power all day long. mt. fuji is amazing and i’ll never get tired of staring at it. thank you to all the locals for sharing a wonderful day with me. i respect you all!
when i’m happy, i do foolish things. yesterday i was happy so i jumped up like a foolish kid. i’m in a good place in my life now. i’m settling down and finding out what is important, and what isn’t. important is surfing, family, and friends. what isn’t is disloyalty, hate, and jealousy. small things no long bother me. i stay away from negative things. i keep a positive attitude. i respect everyone for what they believe in. my life is balanced. i’m an uncle still jumping up on the beach looking like a fool. but you know what? i’ll probably be doing things like this for the rest of my life. if you haven’t tried it, please do. you only live once. so live it up!
