i think i’ve gotten barreled more this month in japan then my whole mentawai trip. lefts, rights, big, and small. i don’t remember a typhoon season better than this for the past 20 years i’ve been coming here. perfect waves, perfect wind, perfect weather, and perfect everything. this was west japan a few days ago. this wave looks super easy, but if you seen the reef right in front of the wave, you will think twice. only a few surfers in japan surf this spot because it’s super dangerous. i love danger and that’s why i love this spot. thank you shinomiya-san for taking this photo.
until i was 23 years old, i only ate california rice. i went to japan and wondered why the rice was so different. and ever since that day, i refuse to eat california rice anymore.
hey kosei-san, thanks for sending me this photo of the waves in hokkaido. i’m glad you had a great trip and i hope you didn’t freeze your ass off. thanks for the mail and hope to see you soon. keep on surfing!
do you want to know how hot it’s been? i surfed the other day, came out of the water, drank a pocari sweat to cool down, ate some lunch, and started sweating again. it felt like a shower on my head. hot, sticky, and stinky. welcome to japan summer 2012. all day, everyday. sweaty photos by ryosuke.
this is pocari sweat! salty! want to try some. haha. but hey, i’m losing weight for sure. surf and sweat, a great combo.
been hearing the waves in hawaii have been flat and super crowded! but guess what everyone? the magic wave maker kirby is going back to hawaii tomorrow so i’ll bet anybody the waves will come up. wanna bet? we shall see.
