i’m pretty happy to see toda-san looking a lot healthier. he’s more energetic and it shows in his surfing. when i first met him, he was a pretty scary guy. then once i started to know him well, he was actually a big teddy bear with a bigger heart. somebody you can trust, and somebody that i know will be there for me for the rest of my life. it’s an awesome feeling to know that.
toda-san loves anything to do with aircrafts. to fly in one, to play with one, or even just to see one. his staff at hula hawaii fuji bought him a new remote airplane for his birthday present. you should have seen his face when he brought it home. he looked like a 5 year old kid who just seen santa claus.
so we go to the beach to test it out. check out this location. freaking amazing!!!! this is where toda-san grew up his whole life.
ready, get set, GO!
this was the coolest thing. he flew it like a pro. i kept on watching it fly and am now thinking about getting one when i get back home. looked so fun!
a few days ago, i was surfing this perfect left point by myself. took off on a wave and decided to do an old school layback. we use to do these back in the 70’s and it was the coolest thing to do back then. sometimes i still do it and it feels like i’m going back into time.
the trick is to drag your back and right arm in the wave so you can get deeper and deeper.
then once you see the barrel going over your head, you pull your hand out of the water and ride it out.
then when you come out, you enjoy the feeling you just had. the layback barrel is coming back and i’m going to do it more and more. enjoy the ride!
anyway, going back to hawaii tonight and will be ready to surf and relax! can’t wait to feel the cool trade winds! see you soon.
