good morning. i finally had time to download the photos off my camera. i had them on there since shikoku and was too busy having fun to even look at them. here’s a few….
this is hatabo-san. he’s a really cool soul surfer and a really nice guy. for the 2 weeks in shikoku, we were both surfing 3 rounds/day. the only difference is that hatabo-san surfed 3 longer rounds than me, and was up even earlier than me. that’s what you call a “soul surfer”…..
hey, i had one question for my okinawan friends. why didn’t anybody tell me about this spot before? i’ve been going to okinawa for 10 years and i thought there wasn’t a “beach break” type of wave. i’ve been only surfing death defying kinds of waves and putting my life at risk every session. so this time when we surfed this “beach break” wave for a few days, i was asking myself. why now? why only now did the boys bring me here? what ever the reason, my perception of surfing in okinawa totally changed. i use to tell people that the surf is dangerous and you have to be really experienced to surf the shallow reefs. but now, okinawa has surf for everyone. this spot was so fun and easy. next time, i’m taking my single fin and surfing here all day long…
what could be going through a surfers mind when checking the waves? lots of things.
what board to ride?
what time is low tide?
who’s out there?
how long do i have to surf?
etc….
what was i thinking? when i seen this setup, i thought it was a good time to take a photo. this one is for the magazine…. a true okinawa surfer girl!!
