good morning. 6:30am. light winds and small waves around the island. north shore is 2-3 and probably too small for the pipe masters. semi-clean conditions but still a little bumpy. north/west swell on the way tomorrow so the pipe masters should be starting. town is really clean but no waves. knee/waist high with nobody out anywhere. oh wait, one guy paddled out to bowls. south swell coming in later tonight. it’s going to be a nice day so get out there and enjoy… be safe….
**had some time yesterday so was deleting photos off my computer to make room for this winter season. found some that i totally forgot about. it’s only been a year ago but seem such a long time ago. anyway, before i delete it, check um out…
i took this lineup shot of pipeline and backdoor last march when they were running the women’s contest out there. a perfect 4′ pipe/backdoor barrel with nobody on it. i couldn’t believe it. you’ll never see this on any other day…
this is ikaika from tahiti grab rail at pipe. he can surf, paddleboard, dive, and do pretty much anything that has to do with the ocean. a true waterman…
and this is satoshi kubota from miyazaki. i’ve known satoshi since i’ve been going to japan. he comes to hawaii for one month out of the year and always seems to get the best photos. here he is cruzing through a backdoor barrel… yeah satoshi, see you soon….
and this is aoi koike. aoi just won the japanese bodyboarding circut this year making her a 10X grand champion. that’s pretty amazing. she’s been the girl to beat and now that she’s retiring, next year’s up for grabs. congratulations aoi for accomplishing something that will probably never be done again…
***and last, got this email from ryu nakamura asking for your help. it’s a petition opposing the operation of the Rokkasho Nuclear Waste Reprocessing Plant in aomori, japan. discharging any kind of radiation in the ocean is screwed up. please sign the petition…. CLICK HERE…..
