no job is more rewarding than mine. to see so many happy smiles on peoples faces after they caught a wave is the best. i remember all my best waves i caught in japan and i remember how happy i was, and still am. so giving people a great experience is my main focus. i want each and every person i surf with to smile, remember, and take the memory back to japan. whether it is their best wave, longest wave, or worst wipeout. i just want to create a memory that will last a lifetime. so waking up in the morning not knowing who i will meet today is pure excitement for me.
the Nomura-san couple are so cool. crazy things happened early this morning and i almost couldn’t find them. but when i did, we laughed, and we surfed. shit happens in life and when it does, you just have to jump in the ocean and everything becomes a part of the past. i had a great time surfing with them. the smiles will never be forgotten. and neither will be the long rides we had all morning long.
then Saito-san and i did a power session this evening. we surfed so long and caught so many waves. great long riding again! i was stoked to have met some awesome surfers today. and i’m sure we will meet again!
it’s good to see our golden sunsets every evening. as i’m driving home, i’m thinking to myself what a wonderful world we live in. i live the surfers lifestyle and won’t trade it for anything. surfing my dream is what i’m doing. good night.
