pretty good summer in hawaii. small waves but super fun. yesterday we had some pretty heavy rain in the morning and the water at bowls was so stinky! the rain supposed to be here for a few days and we shall see. for the tourists, i feel sorry for. but for me, i love the rain. it washes our island clean and things turn green again. and the smell of rain is amazing. fresh, pure, and exciting! i looked at my calendar and guess what? i’m surfing all day for the next 10 days. then i’m going to okinawa!!! can’t wait!
they held a photo contest online and this is the winner. Jon Miyashiro took this amazing photo of a body surfer at sandy beach. this photo is awesome! makes me want to bodysurf, and makes me want to shoot photos. very inspiring!
as for this photo, i don’t know if you can even call this a wave. how crazy is this!!!! it looks like a joke or something.
and last, 3 years ago in the mentawai, i took off on a huge wave at HT’s. i couldn’t really see when i took off because the white water went into my eyes. i remember doing a bottom turn and expecting to get the barrel of my life. instead, the wave decided to build and dump on my head. like a fool, i straightened out. the whole ocean landed on my head to toe. my board broke in 3 and i’m lucky my body didn’t break into 3. when i look back, i can laugh about it. but if got hurt that day, it could have been a horror story because the nearest hospital is 12 hours away by boat.
