Surf Your Dream….

407

good morning, 6:30am here on this beautiful day. small waves in town. actually seen a chest high perfect wave at bowls. 3 guys out. looks fun and it’s super clean. the water finally cleaned up in town. i was out in waikiki yesterday and the water was crystal clean. north shore looks 2-3′ right not but should be getting bigger. the buoys are up so probably 5′ by this afternoon. i think they will get the pipe masters started. well, it’s going to be a beautiful day out there so get in the water. have a nice day….

i remember going up to kamehameha school 3x a week to train with tony moniz, todd mitsui, kaipo jaquias, eric barton, sunny garcia, john shimooka, kalani robb, and many others. trainer kimo middlesworth use to get us in top shape. we use to start off at 5:30am running down a 2 mile hill, hitting the bottom and grabbing 50lbs bags of sand in rubber tubes and putting it around our necks. running up and down the hill 7x. race back up to the gym. and when i mean race, i mean race. the kind when we got to the top, somebody would throw up. it was that competitive. and that was just the start. we hit the gym, do 1000 sit-ups, jump rope for 15 minutes, stretch, and do 15 reps of like 15 weight routines. then it was off to the pool. the freezing pool. we did laps and laps until we were totally out of breath. underwater exercises, kickboard races, and end it with a protein shake. that would take about 2 hours. then i would either be off to surf the north shore, or off to school. we were so fit that surfing big waves was nothing. we use to paddle out on the biggest days out at sunset, haleiwa, lani’s, pipeline, and pretty everywhere unridable. we use to follow tony, which meant we were surfing the biggest waves on the north shore. rain, onshore, or closing out. anything. when i think about it now, those were the days. no photographers, no media hype. it was just us and the ocean. we did it for the challenge and for the feeling. we could care less of anybody seen us or not… so here i was a few weeks ago taking nao in the pool for some short training exercises. as i was waiting for her to come back up from holding her breath, i was thinking. i was thinking of how much those years of hard core training paid off. thanks kimo for taking the time to work our butts off….

nao’s first attempt at holding her breath was 24 seconds. by the second day, she could hold it for 1 minute 15 seconds. and from barely making it from one side to the other swimming under water, she did it easily over and over again. pretty impressive. next step? swim out to big sunset with no board and fins. practice diving under big mountain white wash. get ready and see you next year nao…

by the way, if you didn’t see it, this is the go-naminori ad we ran in the past Japan Surfer Girls Magazine….. go girls….
**want to watch the PIPE MASTERS? CLICK HERE…..

**want to watch the PIPE MASTERS IN JAPANESE? CLICK HERE…..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide